Tiny Witch Doll Free Bead Pattern

Tiny Witch Doll Free Bead Pattern

Made with Seed Beads and Tubular Peyote Stitch



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Here's what you'll need to make your own 3 Dimensional Tiny Witch Doll:

1 hank black size 11 seed beads . The doll in the picture was made with matte black Czech seed beads.

A few red and white seed beads.

A few brown seed beads. Matte topaz iris Delicas were used in the sample

1 black pony bead per witch.

1 4mm round bead per witch. The bead used in the sample is a translucent yellowish off-white.

Size 0 black Nymo.

Size 13 needle.

The construction of this little doll is similar in many ways to the Realistic Fuchsia Earrings bead pattern, but much easier! The Tiny Witch Doll can be beaded in a single evening once the bead pattern and assembly process is understood.

Thread the needle with doubled, waxed thread. Pick up eight black seed beads and tie them in a circle. This circle is the doll's waist. Next, add the doll's legs. This step is optional, depending on the finished doll desired. The beaded Witch Doll made without legs will stand up on its own. With legs, it will not stand up on its own.

Pick up ten seed beads with the following color sequence: red, white, red, white, red, white, red, 3 black. The three black seed beads form the boot. Skip two of the black beads and go up through the third one and the rest of the leg. Pass the needle through the back of the bead your originally left. Continue around the waist to the bead opposite the one you attached the first leg to. Add the second leg in the same manner as the first.



Next, add the skirt. Pick up 15 beads then go back up through the first of them to form a loop. Then pass the needle back through the back of the same at the doll's waist area. Go forward through the next waist bead, pick up 15 beads, go up through the first of them, through the back of the bead you left and through the next waist bead. Repeat this process for each waist bead until you have 8 loops.



The torso is made from a short Even Count Tubular Peyote section. Use the waist circle as the base row (first two rows for Peyote stitch). Add rounds until there is a stack of three beads over each of the waist beads.



Close off the tube by going through the four beads added in the final round. Go through them several times until they stay put.



Now add the arms. Go through the bead one row below the bead from which your thread exits. Pick up 5 beads, skip the fifth one and go back through the rest of them and through the back of the bead you originally left. Weave your way to the other side of the torso. Add the second arm in the same manner as you added the first. Weave back up to the upper-most row. Now set the body of the doll aside and thread a new needle for the hat.



Pick up 24 beads with the new needle. Tie them in a circle. Go through the first bead in the circle. Pick up a bead and go through the back of the bead from which your thread exits. Continue through the next two beads in the circle. Pick up a bead and go through the back of the bead from which your thread exits. Continue through the next two beads in the circle. Repeat this process all the way around the circle until 12 beads have been added.



Go around the new circle of twelve beads to connect them. This circle should lie flat inside the larger circle. Now repeat the process used in the previous step, adding 6 beads. Go through the six beads to connect them. This circle will stand up a little. Repeat once more adding three beads. Go through the three several times and weave back into the hat to secure your thread. Trim off any excess thread and set the hat aside.



Now, assemble the doll. Pick up the 4mm bead, go through the center of the hat, and pick up one black seed bead. Go back down through the center of the hat and the 4mm bead. Re-enter the "neck" through the bead opposite the bead from which your thread originally exited. Make the circuit through the 4mm bead, the hat and the seed bead and back down once more, re-entering the neck through the back of the first bead. Weave the thread down to one of the arms (the one you want to be positioned higher on the broom) and out through the end. If earrings are being made, alternate the higher side so that the broom faces the opposite direction on one of the finished dolls.



Pick up 3 brown beads, skip the last one and go back through the other two and the last bead of the arm.



Pick up two more brown beads and go down through the bead on the end of the other arm. Pick up brown beads, the pony bead, and 5 more brown beads. Skip the fifth brown bead and go up through the whole broom including the end bead and back down again through the pony bead. Pick up five more brown beads and make the circuit again. Continue adding bristles to the broom until it becomes difficult to make more thread passes. Weave up through one of the arms and into the body to secure the thread.


Here's a picture of an alternate version, made with jet black 3-cut beads. These 3-cut beads add a nice sparkle but they are bigger and the hat needed to be adjusted to fit. The broom was also altered a bit in this variation. Both bead types make a cute finished witch doll.

I found this recipe on fb

CookingHawaiianStyle.com

and I just have to say its so good you have try it too

Coco Puff

For those of you that know, the coco puff from Liliha Bakery in Hawaii is an island treasured piece of paradise. It is a cream puff pastry filled with chocolate pudding and topped with a buttery macadamia nut chantilly frosting that is out of this world! This is not Liliha Bakery's recipe but close enough. The original recipe is a highly-guarded secret.

By: A. Honopaa

Not reviewed yet

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Prep Time: 20 | Cook Time: 20 | Ready In: 40

Ingredients

US Metric

Cream Puff Pastry

• 1 cup water
• 1 stick butter
• 1 cup flour
• 4 large eggs

Chocolate Filling

• 1 8oz container coolwhip
• 2 6 oz boxes instant chocolate pudding mix
• 2 ¾ cups cold milk

Chantilly Frosting

• 1 12oz can evaporated milk
• 1 1/4 cups sugar
• 2 sticks butter
• 6 large egg yolks
• 1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract
• ¼ cup chopped toasted macadamia nuts

Order The Professional Pastry Chef Cookbook

Cooking Process
Chantilly Frosting:
Combine milk, sugar, butter, egg yolks and vanilla.
Cook stirring constantly, over medium heat for 15 minutes or until mixture thickens. Add vanilla extract. Chill 1 hour covered with a piece of plastic wrap directly on surface for proper spreading consistency.
Chocolate Filling:
Combine all ingredients and beat with an electric mixer until mixed well.
Cream puff pastry:
Boil water and block of butter. Remove from heat, add flour. Stir until ball of dough forms and pulls away form the sides of saucepan. Mix in eggs one at a time, beat for 1 minute before adding the next. Scoop 1 1/2" balls onto cookie sheet covered in aluminum foil.
Bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes then lower heat to 325 degrees for 30-35 minute (Puffs should look dry. They should peel off the foil and tip over when nudged gently with a wooden spoon.)
Cool and cut off tops with a serrated knife. Fill, put back tops, frost with chantilly frosting.
* To fill without cutting off the tops, spoon filling into a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip. Poke the tip trough the cream puff and squeeze the bag to fill the puff.

Making Fabric Headbands

Sharing from a blog I found

I have this list of "blog" things I'm trying to finish up before baby E comes, so let's see how I do.

I'm starting with this one: Double Sided Fabric Headband Pattern. I had so many ask about how I made the ones for my daughter's teachers that I digitized the pattern for all of you to use and wrote up instructions.

You can make simple ones

or more elaborate ones. I made these with leftover pieces from my daughters quilt.
Are you ready to make one of your own?

What you need:
-Download the pattern from here {there's a 1 inch line on it to make sure it's printed the correct size for you}
-Fabric for the headband and elastic cover
-5.5 inches of 1/2" or 3/4" elastic (this can be adjusted if needed)

Notes:
-Always back stitch at the beginning and end of sewing, unless otherwise stated.
-Seam allowances are 1/4" unless otherwise stated.

1. Once you print out your pattern, cut the pattern pieces out.

2. Cut out two pieces for the headband, making sure the pattern piece is on the fabric fold.

3. Cut out two pieces for the elastic cover (if you make your elastic piece longer, increase the length of these pieces as well). Again, make sure the pattern piece is on the fabric fold.

4. Cut your piece of elastic to be 5.5" long.

5. Place the a headband fabric piece and elastic cover fabric piece down, right sides facing up. Then place the second pieces on top of them, right sides facing down. Make sure to match up the sides and pin together.

6. Sew down the sides of the headband and the elastic cover.

7. Turn each piece right side out. I do this by attaching a long piece of yarn to a safety pin.

Then I slide the safety pin through the what needs to be turned

and then pin one side of the end.

Tuck in the end that has the safety pin a little

and then pull the yarn on the other end and it will be right side out.

8. I use a long stick to push out the seams from the inside and then iron, but you can just iron each piece if you like. I just don't like the fabric overlapping on the sides too much.

9. Now take the elastic cover piece and sew down each long side. This creates a middle casing for the elastic.

10. Add a safety pin to the end of the elastic and start to slide the elastic through the elastic cover. Make sure to stop before the end without the safety pin is inside.

11. Once the side without the safety pin is at the opening, sew it in place so it won't go anywhere.

12. Continue to push the safety pin through the casing until the other end of the elastic is at the other edge. Sew that in place as well.

13. On each end of the headband piece,

turn in some so no raw edges are showing.

14. Slip in the elastic band until the place where you sewed is no longer visible and sew in place.

15. Repeat #14 on the other side.

16. Top stitch the sides of the headband part if desired (I sew closer to the edge than 1/4").

They are simple to make and if you plan it well you can whip up a bunch at the same time assembly line style like. Then you have a bunch for yourself or gifts for the ladies in your life :) Most of these will probably be Christmas presents. Great, huh? And it's only July!!!!!

If you make some, share with us in the flickr group or on the fb fanpage

Plastic Spoon Roses

Handmade Tile Coasters

I found this tutorial and I am inspired to make some

We finally have coasters! Whoo hoo! As I mentioned in the Linky Love post last Saturday, we have been needing some drinking coasters for a while now. I have been perusing the internet for a DIY coaster tutorial that was easy with a beautiful result. Well, I found out that there are a lot.

Fortunately enough, I already had almost all of the supplies on hand! How's that for easy?

Le Supplies (No, I don't speak French.):

• Scrapbook paper, wrapping paper, pretty napkins, any paper product of that nature. Be sure not to use anything printed off because the ink will smear.
• Scissors
• Pencil
• Felt or cork board (felt is a whole lot cheaper)
• Mod Podge (I've had this for a while now, so I don't remember how much a container of it is... maybe around $5? But it lasts!)
• Water-resistant, Clear Acrylic spray or Polyurethane spray (this costs around $5, but yet again - it lasts).
• Foam/sponge brush
• Ceramic Tiles (these are super cheap! I got mine for free from a friend, but they are around 16 cents a piece, depending on what kind of tile you get.

First, trace the tile onto your paper and cut it out. You can choose to leave room on the sides for a border, but I like the paper to cover the entire surface. I did, however, have a border on my yellow coasters because I used small cards for the paper, and I didn't want to have a crease in the middle of my coaster. Yes, you can also use cards for this project! There are so many fabulous cards out there with gorgeous designs. You can also get creative and cut out patterns and paste them onto your coasters to create your own picture (like the bottom cut out in the picture above).

It was my intention to pick one theme or the other (yellow or the blues and purples), but I loved them both so I chose to do four in the yellow and four in the blue/purple/flower theme.

Next, take your Mod Podge and podge up that tile. I used glossy, but you can certainly choose to do matte if you like. Carefully place your paper onto the podged (what a fun word) tile. You have a couple of precious seconds to play around with your paper to get it straightened out on the tile, but once those seconds are up, don't move it! Or you'll end up with a goopy, podgey mess. Wait a couple of minutes for the paper to stick to the tile and then podge the top of the paper. "Podge" may be my new favorite verb.

Let the tiles dry for 15-20 minutes, then apply another coat on top. Repeat this process a few more times.

The next step is to make felt circles for the bottom of your coasters. You can do this in between coats of mod podge while you're waiting for them to dry. Another option is to cut the felt into squares to cover the entire bottoms of the tiles. You can also choose to use cork board which looks fancier and more professional. I went with felt circles. Cause that's how I roll. And because I had limited felt in my supply of craft scraps.

Glue them on! Be sure to use a waterproof glue like the amazing E-6000 or any other glue of that nature. The husby was helping me take pictures (another one of his ways to "craft" with me. Ha! He's adorable.) I was trying to get him to take pictures of me gluing the felt on, but I ended up with two or three pictures of the coaster and a million ugly pictures of me! Maybe next time I'll let him glue and I'll take the pictures.

The final step is to spray your coasters with the clear acrylic (or polyurethane) spray. I chose the glossy coating, but the matte look would work well too. Apply according to the directions given on the can. I did a couple of coats for extra waterproofiness.

Here is the yellow set.

And here is the other set. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep both sets (because we definitely could use all 8) or give one set to someone for a present (another great reason to make these).


And that's all! They're so beautiful! They add so much to the space even though that's not their main purpose. I love them.They are so bright and cheery and have such a cool texture from the mod podge and the brush strokes. Also, they were less than $5! Well, not counting the mod podge (which I already had) and the clear acrylic spray, but those will be used for many more projects in the future, so I only count a percentage of their cost. Only $5?? Whaat? Subliminal message: Must make coasters now.

So long, nasty water rings! Good riddance.

Coffee Filter Roses

I found instructions on making these and I just have to share, takes some practice but they are so pretty

The way actual flowers are made is pretty widely known, and needs no real explanation. The biggest change I've made is using coffee fiters as base material. I've been using both bleached and unbleached fliters, and while the former are best for delicate, pastel colors, the latter are perfect for achieving a kind of a vintage look.

 First, we take a filter, and cut a circle in it, then make a spiral cut in it. The resulting strip of paper should be between 1 and 1,5 centimeters wide, but don't worry about it too much, even if it turns out to be uneven or egg-shaped.
.
The filter needs to be sprinkled with water in order to make the colors blend easier. You can use Glimmer Mist instead of water to get a pearlescent finish from the start.


Next, we color the filter with inks of all kinds, Distress Ink reinkers, even watercolor paint. To apply these, I use blending tools, making interesting patterns and stains.


We have to dry the filter later - either with a heater, or, like me, leaving it on a radiator.

We start forming the flower with the outer part of the spiral. I achieve best results using tweezers, grabbing from below. Once we have our spiral tightly wound up, we make it a little loose and shape it until we like he way our flower looks like (the center should be pretty tight, while the outer part can be pretty loose).

Sorry for the dirty fingers, but it's hard to get the ink off after making a few dozen flowers. ;)
Now, all we have to do is glue the flower - a hot glue gun works best - by putting a small amount of glue on the underside, covering it with the end of the spiral, applying a little pressure and waiting for the glue to cool.

Finally, we get a lovely flower, and the best thing is that it can be made in less time than reading this tutorial.